Making the tempor work well
Just came across this on Ebay… It says 5 available/4 sold. Do you think they’re legit? I don’t think I’ve ever seen the Tempor in black before, especially in recent times. Usually it’s either white (super hard to find) or neon orange.
I bought mine from that seller. Came in about 4 days and appears legitimate to me.
I have a small loop on my car key and loop it around my HRM strap. Never been a problem. Easy to get to.
I am not fast enough to justify one of those POCs. Nor aero enough.
Interesting…I may try to pick one up then.
Finlly have a few more pictures from my TT earlier this week. Position looks better than I expected- I went with a higher position since my head was popping up after 30 mins in position and losing the benefits of being lower). I’ve also been able to produce more power with the higher stack.
I have a longer, -17 degree stem coming tomorrow to get a little lower, and to get my elbows more toward the back of the pads rather than the front(and should add a cm or so of reach). I also want to angle the pads up slightly, and raise the angle of the bars to bring up the hands a bit too.
Any other thoughts on my position? Apologies that the photos are a bit blurry.
It might be just the images, but to me the saddle looks multiple cm too low and the reach looks very short.
I do want more reach, which should be helped with the longer stem. I really struggle to drop my head, so I brought me stack height up but that also means that I need to push my reach out a little farther. Part of it is that in TTs I end up perched on the very edge of the saddle, whereas in subthreshold efforts I slide a little further back (which increases reach and effective saddle height).
Saddle position is definitely on the low side but I don’t think it’s super low. I’ve experimented across a few bikes and found the most comfort and power with a lower than standard saddle (raising it has resulted in less power and/or extra pressure in the nether regions). Here’s a better shot of saddle height, this was riding at ~70.3 power so more what I’m looking to fit than a 10 mile TT.
Finally got my hands on a set of Veloflex Records. Can’t wait to test once I get my front wheel from Aerocoach (been waiting 3 months now).
Any further impressions @Aeroiseverything? I see Rony Kuba is planning on running them for both training and racing just to get an all around idea of what they’re like.
What saddle are your using? Based on these pics, you need to get better hip rotation. That is likely the reason you can’t stay down for extended periods, your are folding over at the waist vs rotating your hips. It would also explain why you end up on the tip of your saddle.
Cob JOF 55. I would say that it’s ok for me, fine for short rides but hit or miss after about 1 hour. It feels maybe too narrow to dangle off the front of the saddle (which is where I naturally tend to end up on the road), and that puts a lot of pressure on where the legs meet the pelvis (probably hurting hip rotation). If I slide further back, I feel like I can’t get out much power and I basically grind my bits into the flat of the saddle, which is extremely uncomfortable.
To clarify one point, I have no issue staying in the aero position (I’ve done 4 hour trainer rides holding aero other than to get a drink or more food). My issue with being lower in the front was that my head would start to come up because I can’t comfortably/sustainably turtle my neck. I can for maybe 20 mins, but my neck is way too short to drop my head and look up the road. I actually find my position quite comfortable, but obviously want to be more aero while maintaining that comfort.
I am in Arizona, and I just bought a no pinz with one central rear pocket, and one on the right hand side like the track pockets. It was a special order but they can pretty much do anything. Cost the same as a standard. The TTs here normally have the number on the right hand side… if I do an event that wants it on the left I am buggered.
Not used it in a race yet, a little bit worried about the size of the pocket as the TT numbers here can be large, but I may buy a stock of my own numbers that fit and use one of them.
Thanks. I ended up ordering the Track x2. After getting real world feedback here, I emailed nopinz and bounced it off them and Blake said they have US customers using both, but the Track x2 would probably be the best solution for flip flopping numbers.
Do you happen to know what size numbers are normally provided for your TT events?
Sorry, it depends on the promoter, and I don’t have any laying around. I’m just going to gamble that I can fold it down small enough around the numbers to fit or I guess pin it through the pocket if I have to.
I think you need to find a new saddle…your fit starts with good hip position / rotation and you have a lot of room for improvement there. Quite honestly (and I apologize if this comes off as harsh…I don’t mean it that way), you have a good position…for a road bike.
I’d also think you can move your saddle back a bit, but that is hard to determine right now. You have to start with getting more hip rotation. If you look at the first pic you posted, your hips are almost vertical and you are just bending over at the waist.
This is an honest question (I know some about TT positions from slowtwitch threads), but is hip rotation THAT important? I ask because it doesn’t happen naturally for my body- I feel like I have much less power when I do force my hips to rotate further than they do naturally. I’ve also read about the importance of opening the hip angle to increase power and run off the bike (triathlon is my ultimate goal), which is a big reason why high stack-long reach positions have become more popular.
I feel like I have a decent baseline position right now especially compared to some of the TT positions that I see, and have had solid results. Last weekend, I put up the fastest bike split in an olympic tri by almost 2’ and backed that up with a 40’ 10k on a super hilly run course, so I know that my position works. Just trying to see if there’s some incremental easy gains that I can make (aside from repeatedly telling myself to lower my head)! I’m never going to have a world-class CDA (wide shoulders, short neck, wide calves and thighs) but trying to see where I can gain without giving away comfort and sustainability.
Hip rotation is THE critical element to a proper bike fit. Everything else comes out of that. Without proper hip rotation, everything else suffers.
It also doesn’t require closing your hip angle…that is why it is called hip “rotation”. In essence you want to take your current position and just rotate it around the BB. Think of a your hip being a dial…you want to turn that dial forward and then adjust your other coordinates accordingly.
You don’t have to achieve a world-class CdA, you just have to look to maximize your position. With a better position, you’ll go faster on the same power and still be able to run your same 10k splits.
Looking through my pictures, I think the first one isn’t representative of my hip rotation since that was from the last few seconds of the TT trying to smash power uphill. Looking at other pictures, I’m definitely more even but I see that hip rotation could be better relative to the ideal position (just not sure how far my body will let me rotate without other drawbacks). I have been wanting to try a new saddle but not looking to spend tons of $$ trying out several, so any recs would be appreciated.
I did get my new stem this afternoon which I think will help- going from 80 -6 degrees to 100mm -17 degrees. Moved the saddle back a couple mm and tilted my extensions up a little more. Did a one hour endurance ride on TR after the changes and felt decent, seemed to be less cramped and a little more rotated. Key will be to see if I can keep my head down and hips rotated at high power and after 20-30 mins.