FWIW, since getting the battery covers and baby oil trick, zero dropout issues in 16 months.
When I first got my V3s, I had to use baby oil for the batteries not to rub together. I’ve now got version 3 of the battery door and in Garmin’s defence everything is now working flawlessly even without adding oil.
Still pretty shitty that they were released in this state and I know, I should probably have got the Assiomas, but hey at least I have a working product now and Garmin’s support has been pretty good.
As an update, I received a new set of pedals. Seem to be working ok, but there is talk that using a CR1 battery (3v) rather than an LR44 or SR44 (1.5v x 2) also helps to mitigate some of the connection problems.
Same here down in Tasmania, Australia. I recently had a hip resurfacing and purchased the Vecor 3s to specifically monitor my operated sides power vs non-operated side. Instead of this, i’ve suffered the same experience as you. I’ve asked for a full refund with zero interest in a replacement. That aside, how good is TrainerRoad!
I’ve been fairly lucky w mine. No major issues w the new caps. Only some dropouts. But I just installed the long 3v batteries. And they seem to be reading more consistently and no r pedal missing issues.
Honestly they seem to work better w my wahoo head unit than my edge 530 sometimes.
Wanted to link this thread here as it provides info on the other issue that can cause dropouts. I’ve been “lucky” enough to experience both, but my new set has had zero issues in three months. I thought Garmin handled my case well with minimal impact to my training and minimal inconvenience, unlike Wahoo.
Hey, just wanted to share my solve. I was just sent a new set of Vector 3’s by Garmin after my last set developed fretting (which I’d never heard of or been told about before) and, according to Garmin, because it was cross threaded. It was replaced free of charge. So this is my second set of V3’s and both have had tons of dropouts and spikes, but the solve is easy. And now that I know about the fretting and using mineral oil, I hope permanent.
You’ve heard it before–take a standard cardboard or plastic file folder, use a hole punch and punch out two circles–they should be about 0.015" thick–and use tweezers to gently wedge them under the h-shaped contact at the base of the battery compartment. Works like a charm. No more dropouts or spikes. I know others have their versions, but this one works. Then do the mineral oil thing and carefully thread the cap on. It won’t void your warranty because you’ll be smart enough to remove the shims should you ever have to send them back to Garmin or send Garmin pix of your battery compartment for warranty service. Cheers.
Bought my Vector 3s 2 months ago. Worked perfectly for the first month and since then power spikes and drop out continually. Very disappointed as I had previously had Power tap G3 for years with nary a problem. Thanks for all the above suggestions and i’ll give them a try…
Had my Vector 3 pedals since they were launched, and not had too many issues (a few rides on bumpy gravel roads have given me a few weird power spikes), but even the original battery compartments never gave me any issues.
But, I recently stripped the thread in the right pedal (must have happened over time though, as it happened when removing the battery compartment and then got worse putting it back in with new batteries).
I contacted Garmin Support (Sweden) and they asked for a few photos and have said that they will send me a new pedal body. I would have preferred a new pair of pedals, but I suppose it’s better than a slap in the face. Just hoping that it is as easy to swap over as their maintenance video makes it look and that I find a 12 mm socket that fits in the pedal body too.
Anyone else had to do this when they’ve stripped the threads? And tips, or is it straight forward?
I haven’t done it myself, but I’ve watched, and yes, it’s very straightforward. But yes, you do need the right tools…
Prior to the replacement battery covers Garmin provided, i was getting around 20 hours on my V3 pedal batteries. With the new covers, I also purchased a longer extension cable for my ant+ PC dongle, so it is directly below the pedals. I also cleaned the black stuff off the batteries and terminals and I used grease instead of baby oil. Grease was recommended in a class I took on electrical contacts. The new batteries are currently at 47 hours. Note as well that when I did the last battery replacement, the black stuff was only present on one of the pedals. This makes me think getting good coverage of the grease is important.
First pair bought in May 2018, they sent me new battery door in June 2018 to fix drop outs and spikes. Then they worked well until April 2019. Started having right side drop outs and they sent me new PCBs to install. That didn’t work so they swapped these for refurbs with the ‘new’ parts. Those lasted a month until they started to say ‘right PM missing’ and dropping. Called once again and they sent me a new in box pair at the beginning of June 2019. Those died in two weeks, and now Garmin has them back and they sent me a refund.
I’ll be the third on the baby oil train. My V3s are post-door issue and was having lots of drop outs. Once I used the baby oil, the problems have all seemingly gone away.
Anything in particular I need to say to get a refund? Bought about a year ago and they dropped signals nonstop, they sent me a new battery door, and it worked for 6 months and now it just reads 0 Watts the whole time. I’m so fed up with them I just want my money back
Just be real with them about the work put in and your effort to try and make them work. Explain how it has impacted your training and you just would like a refund at this point. Calling is the best bet.
I just installed my third pair of vector 3 pedals since I bought them last October (2018), and true to form, the message about the the right pedal sensor not working appeared. I haven’t even clipped in yet. I’m calling for a full refund, because I’m done with Garmin. I’m on my second Forerunner 920 XT as well. This is so pathetic–i’ve got a half IM coming up and this really affects my training. I’ve done all the fixes with both pairs prior–the battery lube, the battery doors, etc. DONE.
After coming up against a ‘corner case’ with the V3 I’ve been pointed to their beta firmware… released Sept 4th. Good timing.
**Use at own risk.
***If you own V3 you already know about risk.
I’ve updated mine with this software update and so far so good. I didn’t have mega problems before but they weren’t perfect.
Has anyone else managed to (easily!) cross-thread the battery cover into the plastic pedal? Seems a silly design feature to me, particularly with the amount of times you have to take the battery cover off.
One of the major problems with my first replacement pair was that it was literally impossible to screw in the battery covers properly. The yellow rubber band at the top of the cover even became stretched out because of how many times I tried. It’s a consistent MAJOR design flaw. In my original pair, I was even sent “updated” battery cover replacements, which were no better.
This is what’s happened to mine. I’m more concerned about this than the dropout as if I wanted to sell them in the future they are effectively damaged (although not my fault). I might follow this up with Garmin.